Surf Etiquette
Fall surfing is arriving here in Sonoma County! Grab your step-up, check your neoprene, and get ready for stronger swell. The fall season is one of excitement as we cross our fingers for favorable winds and better sandbars, and lineups become populated by familiar faces. And while the beach crowds may thin out from summer, there's still some curious eyes gazing out at the surfers...Inevitably, some of those watching will turn their curiosity into next weekend’s plans, hop on a board, and catch the same bug that the rest of us have. So whether you're a seasoned froth-lord, or a newcomer taking a stab at learning to surf, there’s no better time to brush up on etiquette than now. These guidelines are the glue that holds everything together, ensures everyone’s safety, and creates the best landscape for fun and progression.
Let's begin with your setup. Surfing the right style of board is not only crucial for your fun, but also the safety of yourself and others. If you’re just starting out, opt for a longer soft-top board. Next, make sure your board has enough wax or grip so you aren’t sliding around on the deck. And lastly, make sure your leash is the appropriate length and thickness. You don’t want to have a leash snap and send your board into someone else’s wave. Simply match the leash to the length of your board, or round up (a 6’ board gets a 6’ leash, a 6’6” board gets a 7’ leash, and so on).
Moving on to the parking lot. Surfing (and the beach) is for everyone - every body, gender, color, background. It’s on all of us to make it a positive space. Be courteous when parking, clean up your trash, don’t let your boards get taken by the wind into the car next to you. Building a negative reputation on the drive in won’t make you any friends in the water. Once you’re suited up, it’s time to move on to paddling out.
As with all new endeavors, having a skilled mentor can make a huge difference in this journey - especially a mentor who can check you on your mistakes. As you continue learning, remember this process can be constant trial and error. Before paddling out, always analyze the surf conditions. Watch the sets come through and begin to locate the “peaks,” or points where surfers are gathering and taking off into waves. Notice the pods of surfers near them, and map the direction in which they’re riding. When you’re ready to paddle out, make sure to swing wide around their path to avoid interference, and find a channel with fewer breaking waves, if possible. (Beginners: don’t forget to ask yourself - should I paddle out? If the wave size causes you some uneasiness… it’s best not to go alone.)
Now you've (hopefully) made it out. Keep your head on a swivel, and continue to take in information around you: your position relative to other surfers, the skill levels of those around you, where the waves are breaking, where the shallow sandbars have formed. Now comes the crucial learning piece - the lineup. Reference the image provided at the beginning of this post.
The right of way is defined by the surfer's position relative to the "peak," the highest and first part of a wave to break. The surfer deepest, or nearest to the peak, has the right of way. If you're in the right spot, and start to paddle, be sure to commit! Sometimes other surfers may give a nod, or verbally signal that it's your wave. Look both directions as you paddle in, and make it clear which direction you're going. If you see someone closer to the peak paddling for the same wave, pull back to avoid dropping in on them. If you drop in or make a mistake, apologize. Respect is a two-way street, so own up to your mistake. However - If you're intentionally stealing waves, others will notice.
When paddling back out paddle towards the whitewater, OR paddle wide around the shoulder - whichever gives the approaching surfer the largest opening. And even when the sets are coming in, do not ditch your board! Lastly, share the ocean - if you just took a wave and paddled right back to the peak, wait your turn. It's good to remember that the shifty conditions of beach breaks can make the lineup difficult to read, as the take-off point is often changing. In some cases, when the crowd has shifted and the priority is unclear, the "first to feet" rule may apply.
Understanding and sharing good surf etiquette is more than just a practice. Mistakes are bound to happen. Do your best, be patient, be respectful. If you mess up - apologize, ask for a tip if you need one. If someone drops in on you, or makes a mistake, call them off your wave - but educate them, too. These instances of friction can either become conflicts, or moments of teaching. If we keep this cycle positive, we’re all taking part in shaping the coming generations of surf culture.
Think we missed something? Drop a comment below!
2 comments
What to do about foils that can take a wave, pump back out and take another…endlessly?
Adding how to stay calm and wait and watch when you encounter a Great white Shark might help…. Eddie